Improvement in sewing-machines for sewing together the soles and uppers of shoes



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No.` 59,715. Patented Nov. 13V, 1866.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OEEIcE WILLIAM DUOHEMIN, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS,ASSIGNOR TO HIMSELF AND SULLIVAN E. OLOUGH, OF SAME PLACE.

IMPROVEMENT IN SEWING-MACHINES FOR SEWING TOGETHER THE SOLES AND UPPERS0F SHOES.

Speciication forming part of Letters Patent No. 59,715, dated November13, 1866.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM DUGEEMIN, a citizen of Great Britain, butnow a resident of Lynn, in the county of Essex and State ofMassachusetts, have invented a new and useful Machine for Sewingtogether the Sole and Upper of a Shoe; and do hereby declarethe same tobe fully described in the following specification, and represented inthe accompanying drawings, of which- Figure l denotes a top view 5 Fig.2, a front elevation, Fig. 3 a side elevation, and Fig. 4 a longitudinalvertical and central section, of it.

The machine in question is calculated to perform a chain-stitch made ofone thread, but unlike the ordinary chain-stitch in one particularthatis, every loop of it, before reception of the loop which goes throughit, is twisted at least half a revolution. The purpose of thus twistingtheloop is to render the stitch more difticult to be drawn out orunraveled, especially when the thread used in its formation is waxed.

The last employed for the lasting of a shoe to be sewed on this machinehas also a peculiarity, which is essential to it and the machine-that isto say, such last is made with a false bottom, which bn removal of thebody of the last is left in the shoe and serves to hold the upper andthe sole together, preparatory to and while they are in thc act of beingsewed. A bottom view of such last is represented in Fig. 5, alongitudinal section in Fig. 6, and a side elevation of it in Fig. 7. lnthese figures, c is the body, and b the false bottom of the last, thetwo being connected by dowels c c extending from the body into the/false bottom, and so formed as to enable the body and bottom to bereadily separated when occasion may require.

One great advantage of the last made with the false or movable bottom isthat one lastbody will sufee for any number of thev bottoms. When thelasting of a shoe may have been effected the body part a of the last maybe extracted from the shoe, leaving the false bottom therein. Anotherand similar false bottom may be applied to the body, and another shoemay be lasted on the tivo. Thus I save in stock in lasts, as I requireonly one last-body and a series of the bottoms, instead of a number ofwhole lasts equal to the number of false bottoms.

Fig. 8 is a front view of the old or common chain-stitch. Fig. 9 is asimilar view of the stitch made by the machine herein described, eachloop being represented in Fig. 8 as without any twist. In Fig. 9,however, it is exhibited as having what is termed a twist,77 orsometimes a half-twist.77

The means of supporting the shoe while being sewed by my improvedmachine differ from those in any other sewing-machine of which I haveany knowledge. They consist not only of the false bottom hereinbeforedescribed, but of a bent arm to enter the shoe, the false bottom pieceresting on such arm. The shoe-sole is to be'channeled parallel to itsedge, and at a short distance therefrom, such channel being forreception of the sewing, and also to aid in maintaining the shoe in itsdue relation to the sewing mechanism during the performance of thelatter.

Fig. lO represents a transverse section of the sole and its channel,with the upper lying on the sole, and it also shows the manner in whichthe main and auxiliary gages, to be hereinafter described, rest on thesole, one going into the channel and the other resting on the upper,where it overlaps the sole. As the upper varies more or less inthickness around the sole, it becomes necessary to have t-he auxiliarygage seltadjusting relatively to the main gage. In other words, itbecomes necessary that the auxiliary gage should be movable vertically,and be supported against or by a spring, which will causeit to pressdown upon the upper and rise or fall thereon, in accordance with thevariation of the thickness thereof.

In the drawings marked Figs. l, 2, 3, and 4, A denotes the frame of themachine, such frame being properly formed and constructed for supportingthe operative members or parts of the mechanism.

The bent arm for aiding in supporting the shoe is shown at B, such shoe,with the false bottom of the last, as applied to the arm, beingrepresented in red lines in Fig. `2. The said arm is supported by and soas to be capable of swveling in the upper end of a slid- 'ing-post, C,which is upheld by a spring, lf,

resting on a cross-bar, g, of the frame A. This spring enables the armto accommodate itself to the variations of thickness of the upper andthe last-bottom during the operation of feeding the shoe; but while thesewing is being performed, as well as while the awl maybe puncturing thesole and upper, the post C should be held rmly, so as to be immovable.This is accomplished by means of a brake, D, which spans the post and isconnected to the shorter arm of a right-angular lever, E. (Se-e Figs. 3and 4. To the longer arm of the said lever and to a stationary abutment,h, a spring, t', is applied so as to press the said arm downward andthereby cause the brake to be drawn closelyr againt the vertical post.The said post also has a treadle, F, connected with it by a rod, le. Thepurpose of the said treadle is to enable a person to depress the bentarm B far enough from the sewing mechanism to allow a shoe containing afalse last-bottom to be either arranged upon or removed from the saidarm.

There extends from the longer arm of the lever E, and through the springi in the abutment h, a rod, Z, which terminates at top in an eye, nl,through which the driving-shaft Gr of the machine passes. vProjections nu from the eye rest on the periphery of acam, o, fixed to thedriving-shaft. This cam is exhibited in side view in Fig. 11. At theproper timethat is, while the feeder is in operation-this cam, by itsaction against the projections u n, will cause the brake to release itspressure against the post C.

The main gage of the machine is exhibited at H, and the auxiliary gageat I. (See Figs. 2 and 4.) The said main gage is stationary, except thatit should be so iixed to the frame of the machine as to be capable ofvert-ical adjustment to properly adapt sewing mechanism to a sole whenthe foot of the main gage may rest on the bottom of the channel of suchsole. The auxiliary gage 'I plays vertically on the main gage, and ispressed downward by a spring, o1, suitably applied, the purpose of suchspring being that hereinbefore mentioned or alluded to.

The mechanism for eiect-ing the Vsewing of the chain-stitch with a twistor half-twist in each loop consists, besides mechanism for supportingthe shoe, of a thread-carrier, K, a needle, L, a loop-advancer, M, aloop-twister, N, and a feeder, O, and their operatlve mechanisms. Tothese also may be added an awl, 1), and its operative mechanism, to behereinaft-er described.

I have also applied to the said sewing machi: ery a mechanism forextracting the tacks used in the lasting of the upper and sole. Thistack-extracting mechanism is made to so operate as to extract each tackjust before it would be likely to come into the way of the sewingmechanism were it to be allowed to remain in the last-bottom b.

The thiead-carrier K is shown in Fig. 2.

It receives the thread from a spool, Q, arf

ranged on the top of the frame. Such thread goes down through an eye, p,fixed to' the side of the carrier, and is led through an eye formed inthe lower end or part of such carrier.

Fig. 12 is an inner edge view of the threadcarrier. It has amechanism'applied to it for moving it up and down and causing it to laythe thread intothe hook of the needle. Thel mechanism for moving thethread-carrier longitudinally consists of a cam, q, (ixed on thedriving-shaft (31,) a shaft, r, and two arms, s t, and alink, u, bywhich one of such arlns is connected with the threadcarrier. The otherarm rests on the periphery of the cam, the whole being arranged asrepresented in the drawings.

The mechanism which, in connection with vthat for imparting to thethread-carrier its longitudinal movements, gives to the said carrier thenecessary movement to cause it to cast the thread into the hookot' theneedle in order that, when the needle is next retracted', it may seizeupon the thread and draw itin the form of a loop through the shoe,consists ot'a stud, fv, and a slot, w. (See Fig.2, and also Fig. 13,which represents these parts more delinitely.) The stud is stationary orprojects from the face-plate x of the frame of the machine. The slot ismade in the shank of the thread-carrier.

The needle L is curved and hooked, a side view ot' it being shown inFig. 14. It is carried by a lever, a. (See Fig. 15, which is an outerside View of this lever and its operative mechanism connected with itand the drivingsha-ft.) The fulcrnm of the lever, which is arocker-shaft, is seen at y. The upper arm of the lever is jointed to aslider, z, which embraces the driving-shaft, and is moved longitudinally at the proper times by means of two cams, al b1, fixed onthe driving-shaft, one of the said cams serving to move the slider inone direction and the other to move it in the opposite direction.

To the needle is also given a slight forward motion after it may havebeen retracted far enough to draw the loop through the shoe.. Thisforward movement is to enable the loop to be readily disengaged fromthebarb of the hook of the needle, and is /produced by the cam a', whichadvances the needle. The shapes of the two cams a* bl, as well as theirrelative posi: ions, and those of the studs or projections c d', againstwhich they act, are given in Fig. 16.

The office ofthe loop-advancer M is to seize the upper part of the bowof the loop while such loop is held by the needle, and. press such upperpart forward and raise it over and drop it upon the hook of theloop-twister, which, after having received the loop, is to be revolvedand'inoved so as to put the necessary twist in the loop and present itfor the next advance of the needle, in order that the needle may passthrough if..

This advancer (shown in top viewin Fig. 17

and in side view in Fig'. 1S) is furcated and has a thread-receivingnotch iu the extremity of each ofthe prongs of the fork. The advancer isprojected from a carriage, el, applied to the inner side of the plate x,as seen in Fig. 19, which exhibits a view of the inner Vside of suchplate with the mechanism directly applied' to it.

The carriage el is supported between and by horizontal and parallel waysf] f1, and has a spring, g', forretracting it. A shaft, hl, providedwith two arms, c1 kl, has one arm connected with the carriage and theother resting against a cam, l1, placed on one side ofthe cam, foroperating the thread-carrier. The loop-advancer carriage will receiveits proper movements 4by the action of the said cam l', shaft h1, armsil kl, and spring g1 during a revolution of the driving-shaft.

rllhe loop-twister N (shown in FiOs. 2 and 19, and more particularly inFigs. 20 and 21, of which Fig. 2() is a top view, and Fig. 21 a sideelevation of it) is supported by and in a bracket, m1, so as to becapable of being revolved axially. A crank, nl, projecting from theshank of the twister N, is, by means of a rod', o2, connected with anarm, p1, projecting from a shaft, ql. (See Figs. 1 and 19.) vA forkedarm, i", projects from the sha-ft q1 and spans the slider s', composingpart of the machine by which the awl is operated, such slider beingformed as represented in longitudinal section in Fig. 22. rlwo' cams, tu', on the said slider serve to actuatc the forked arm r so as to impartto the loop-twister its necessary motions.

The feeder (shown in Fig. 2 at O) has reciprocating longitudinal andintermittent movements imparted to it by proper mechanism, suchmechanism consisting of two bent levers, o w', an under-side view ofwhich is given in Fig. 23, each of such levers-consisting of a shaft andtwo arms projecting therefrom. One arm of one of such levers isconnected with the feeder by a link or pitman, w', the said feeder beingarranged in a groove, y', such as will support and guide it and allow itto rise as it is moved back.

One arm, e', of the other bent lever extends between two studs, a2 b2,projecting down from the slider s. Thus, it will be seen that by theaction of the studs c2 b2 against the arm z', while the slider is inlnovement, the necessary motions will be imparted through and by thelevers o w' to the feeder.

The awl P (shown in Fig. 2, and more particularly with the needle andother parts in Fig. 24, which is an under-side view of them) is carriedby a lever, c2, whose upper arm is jointed to. the slider s', embracesthe drivingshaft, and is operated or moved back and forth by means oftwo cams, d2 e2, fixed on the shaft G, and working against projectionsf2 g2 from the slider.

The mechanism for extracting the lastingtacks is next to be described.It consists mainly of a pair of spring-pinchers, R. (See Figs. 2 and 3,and more particularly in Fig. 25, 'which is a vertical section of thesepinchers and their operative mechanism.) They are closed by means of aspring, h2, and opened by a movable cam, i2, against which the upper armk2 of their jaw-lever p2 is drawn during the upward movement of thepinchers. The said cam turns on a center-pinna?, and between twostrops,'n2 03. By the action of gravity the cam i2 will fallin front ofthe arm kZ just before it makes such descent. While the pinchers aredescending the arm k2 will be moved against the cam, and by it be moved,so as to move the movable jaw of the pinchers away from their other jaw,in order that the pinchers may receive the head of a tack between theirjaws during their descent. After the pinchers may have thus passed uponthe tack, their arm k2 will throwA aside and pass by the cam, and,finally, be brought against another or stationary cam, Z2, by which thepinchers will be opened, in order that the tack may fall or bedischarged from them. The mechanism for raising and lowering thepinchers consists of a bent lever, q2, arranged as shown in Fig. t andjointed to the slider' s. The pinchers are suspended from the upper orhorizontal arm of the said bent lever.

l would remark that, for the advancer and the twister, with theiroperative mechanism, as described, I contemplate using any ordinarywell-known means of seizing and extending the loop, and presenting itfor the reception of another loop carried by the needle, the differencebetween such and the mechanism hereinbefore described being that whilethe former does not effect the twisting of the loop, the latter doesaccomplish such.

Having thus described my invention, what 1 claim is as follows:

1. In combination with the machinery for sewing, as described, or itsequivalent, the shoe supporter or arm B, provided with mechanism foroperating it, substantially as described, such arm being to be used inconnection with the bottom piece of the last, in manner and for thepurpose as hereinbefore explained.

2. The combination of a mechanism for extracting the tacks,substantially as explained.

3. The combination of the loop-advancer M and the loop-twister N withthe hooked needle L, the feeder O, and the thread-carrier K, each beingconstructed and provided with mechanism for operatin g it, substantiallyas described.

4. The combination of the loop-advancer M, the loop-twister N, thehooked needle L, the awl P, the feeder O, and the thread-carrier K, eachbeing provided with mechanism for operating it, substantially asspecified.

5. The combination of the main and auxiliary gages H and I with the armB, and mechanism for sewing, substantially as described.

VILLM. DUCHEMIN.

Witnesses:

R. H. EDDY, F. P. HALE, Jr.

